Last week, along with my son, Jack and good friends Ben Blake and Dick Deutsch, we returned from Scotland after 245 holes of golf in 8 days. Only once (as a gift from Jack) did I use a caddie, preferring to push or use an electric trolley instead. While my mind may think I’m 29, even after a few days to recover, my body screamed “89”. Unfortunately, my golf game was AWOL for the trip but the experience in the Highlands is always special.
Most fortunate to be a member at Royal Dornoch Golf Club, we played the Championship Course (#2 in Scotland) 3 times and the lesser known but excellent Struie Course twice. Since Jack is a member at Fortrose & Rosemarkie GC (15th oldest club in the world), we played there twice as well, both places experiencing the comfortable atmosphere typical of Scottish clubs. We also made visits to Cabot Highlands (formerly known as Castle Stuart), Spey Bay, Invergordon, Nairn and Golspie, where we participated in an Open Competition, trying another “flavor” of Scottish golf, which allows anyone to enter and get a taste of the local experience. Jack shot 71 and finished second!
Always something to be prepared for, Mother Nature treated us to truly outstanding weather, with high temperatures between 61*F and 70*F each day and generally light to moderate breezes – for them. Many days were shorts days and it was a welcome relief from our very hot and humid summer of 2024.
As I’ve written many times before, there are many things special about golf in Scotland, especially the Highlands. Not quite as crowded as the more tourist intensive areas, most rounds are completed in 3-3.5 hours. I only saw one golf cart and I learned a bit about the economics of Scottish golf clubs.
With climate most certainly a contributing factor, I learned that truly outstanding playing conditions can be achieved on great golf courses for a mere fraction (<40-50%) of the maintenance budgets expended at most clubs in the US. I also learned that dues at the clubs we visited are considerably less costly, ranging generally from (converted) $400 to $1,000+/- on an annual basis for full golf privileges. The economic model for clubs is more reliant on visitor green fees than member dues, with one club sharing a ratio of 2:1 visitor fees to member dues revenue. Quite remarkably, many of these clubs are either debt free or have limited debt and while some experienced distress during the COVID era with no visitors, the rebound has been encouraging. All this occurs despite almost no revenue from golf carts, which are almost non-existent. I only recall seeing one this trip.
Being links courses, along the water, some have experienced some erosion, which is a financial problem for some, but in many cases donations to the clubs, from members and non-members have been forthcoming to help. In many communities, the golf clubs are the center of activity in the town and play an outsized role (compared to the US) in the culture of each small town. The locals could not be more welcoming and hospitable.
While we didn’t do much “fancy” dining (only once) the food was more than adequate and not ridiculously expensive. I can never talk about a visit to the Highlands without mentioning my two favorite treats. Tennents Lager is my favorite beer. Served in most golf clubs, on draft in brand authentic glasses that the bartenders say enhances the carbonation and allows for a great foam head, also enhancing the taste. I won’t argue. I also sampled a few of Cobbs Bakery’s Millionaire Slices, a delectable chocolate covered shortbread cookie with caramel in between. Very dangerous! Unfortunately, I haven’t figured out a way to get both delivered to my house just yet.
Links courses offer many advantages. Firmer conditions mean longer tee shots and I even hit one par 5 in two with a 7-iron. That alone makes you want to return. The natural beauty of both the golf courses and the Scottish countryside is breathtaking. The small towns are charming and the extended summer daylight makes lots of golf easy to play. I can’t wait for next year and already have tee times reserved.